in this video we’ll show you how to installbase cabinets. if you haven’t already watched the measure and prep video, do that first. and remember - if you plan on installing afloating floor as part of your kitchen project, the cabinets go in first but must be raisedto a height just above the flooring. otherwise you might have trouble installing under countertopappliances. you can cut plywood strips that are the thickness of the floor and underlayment. here’s a trick. before you screw down thestrips, level them with shims. this will make the install much easier. it’s also easierif you remove the doors and drawers. then just like installing the wall cabinets,start at a corner. use the guides on the walls
to transfer the stud locations to the cabinets,accounting for the face frame. drill the holes, and set the corner cab in place. the horizontalline is your main guide. line up the top—shim underneath the base and at the back to getit level and plumb. if the wall is extremely bowed, shims can help keep the cabinet squareand fill the space between the base and wall. when it looks good, drive in the screws atthe back—just enough to hold it for now. you’ll tighten them later. for the next cabinet, drill the pilot holesthrough the back, and position the cabinet next to the first. even up the faces— shimmingwhere needed—and clamp the faces together. drive screws in the back just to hold it fornow. next, drill pilot holes with a countersink/taper
bit through the face frames, and connect thecabinets with #8 screws. and that’s the gist of it.here’s a tip if your wall is bowed. glue shims over the stud lines where you’ll securethe mounting screws. this will prevent the cabinet backs from bowing when you drive inthe screws. to even up the cabinet tops near the wall,you’ll need to shim under the cabinet base against the wall. you can use the shim underthe adjacent cabinet as a guide. when you cut that shim, cut another for the next cabinetand leave it in place. where you have plumbing or gas, cut the holesin the back and install like the rest. continue installing the cabinets but don’ttighten the rear screws yet. remember to keep
the faces even and the tops lined up withyour reference line. all right, so what about that space at theend? easy fix with a filler strip. mark and cut the filler strip.for uneven walls, clamp the filler piece to the frame, use a compass to scribe a linefollowing the contours of the wall. and it helps to cut at a 7- to 10-degree bevelto help fit the piece against the wall. mark the width of the piece, and cut the cabinetside. use a plane for minor adjustments. place the piece, drill holes through the frame,and attach with screws. once you have all of the cabinets in, tightenthe rear screws and remove the clamps. any places where you don’t have a cabinetframe to support the countertop, like end
walls and corners, attach 1x2s with screws. after your cabinets are secured, cut toekicksto fit and attach with finish nails. for floating floors do this after they’re installed. don’t add the doors and drawers just yet.you still have to attach the countertops. want more great ideas and how-to’s? go tolowes.com/howto or just click to subscribe. next up, installing laminate countertops.