if you have a bay window, you’ve probablythought about adding a window seat. perfect for reading, relaxing, and addingsome storage a window seat is something you can do on your own in a day or two. all you need are some basic carpentry skills,tools, and supplies. here’s what you’ll need for this satisfyingdiy project: when taking on this diy task be sure to equipyourself with the proper safety gear. throughout the video, we’ll alert you regardingwhen you should and should not use the safety gear. step 1: mark ledger height on wallyou’ll begin by marking your new seating’s
ledger height on the wall. average seating is about eighteen inches high. if you plan on putting a cushion on top ofyour window seat, subtract the cushion thickness plus three-fourths on an inch—the thicknessof the seating panel—from eighteen inches to get the ledger height. mark this measurement at the center of theback wall, then use a level to mark a line at that height on all three walls. step 2: find studslocate wall studs along your lines with an electronic stud finder.
mark each location slightly above the ledgerline so they’re visible once the two-by-four is in place. step 3: install back ledgermeasure the length of the back wall. in this particular project, the ledger wascut to fit around a wall outlet, with ends cut at a twenty-two-and-half-degree angleto fit into corners. if your project calls for similar cuts, measureyour corner angles with a protractor and angle finder, then use a miter saw to cut your two-by-fourto length. place the top of the two-by-four along yourledger line and secure it with two three-inch galvanized or ceramic coated screws to eachstud.
step 4: remove baseboardyour baseboard will need to be removed or cut back from the front of each side wallso the window seat is flush against the wall. remove baseboard with a hammer and pry bar. to remove nails, tap them with a hammer andpull them out with pliers. for this window seat, we removed all of thebaseboard, but feel free to leave the baseboard along the back wall if you’d like. step 5: cut front frame platesmeasure the area where you’ll be installing the front frame plates. determine the angle of the wall with a protractorand angle finder and cut the ends of each
plate with a miter saw. step 6: lay out stud locationsstack the plates together and lay out stud positions, centered twenty-four inches apartalong the plates. mark an x to indicate the stud-side of theline, then use a quick square to strike a cut line for each mark. you’ll need two more studs for the ends. step 7: cut studsto determine the length of the studs, stack the plates, and measure from the top of theplates to the line on your wall. mark your two-by-four with a quick square,then use a miter saw to make your cuts.
step 8: assemble front frameplace each stud on its line and attach with two three-inch screws. step 9: install front frameput the front frame in place, and secure it to the floor with three-inch screws. start with a screw on each end. add screws between studs and at the top ofthe frame. step 10: cut sidewall ledgersto determine the length of the sidewall ledgers, measure from the inside corner where the backledger ends to the back of the front frame. cut the sidewall ledgers with a miter saw,using the same angle as the back wall ledger
in step three. step 11: install sidewall ledgersplace each sidewall ledger along your horizontal lines. pre-drill, then secure with two, three-inchscrews in each stud. step 12: measure for crosspiecestwo crosspieces will run wide side up between the front frame and back wall ledger to supportthe seat board and lid. they’ll be located at the ends of the backwall where the side walls begin. measure to find their length, mark with aquick square, and make your cuts with a miter saw.
step 13: install crosspiecesset the crosspieces in place. we recommend predrilling holes for the screwsattaching the crosspieces to the front frame and back wall ledger. use two screws for each end. check for level as you work and adjust ifneeded. step 14: cut front paneldetermine the front panel height by measuring from the bottom of the seat to the top ofthe frame. cut a piece of half-inch medium density fiberboard—commonlyknown as mdf—to this width with a circular use a chalk line to snap a cutline, then makeyour cut, using a guide as needed.
step 15: install front paneldab construction adhesive on the front frame, and put the front panel in place. predrill for nail holes with a one-sixteenth-inchdiameter bit and attach the panel with three-d finish nails. sink the nails in place with a nail set. step 16: measure for top and bottom moldingthe molding arrangement for this project’s window seat matches a built-in headboard inthis bedroom. it consists of frames made from three-fourths-inchby three-and-a-half-inch mdf boards with small panel molding around the inside of each panel.
if you have a bay window, you’ve probablythought about adding a window seat. perfect for reading, relaxing, and adding some storagea window seat is something you can do on your own in a day or two. all you need are somebasic carpentry skills, tools, and supplies. ledger height on the wall. average seatingis about eighteen inches high. if you plan on putting a cushion on top of your windowseat, subtract the cushion thickness plus three-fourths on an inch—the thickness ofthe seating panel—from eighteen inches to get the ledger height. mark this measurementat the center of the back wall, then use a level to mark a line at that height on allthree walls. electronic stud finder. mark each locationslightly above the ledger line so they’re
visible once the two-by-four is in place. step 3: install back ledgermeasure the length of the back wall. in this particular project, the ledger was cut tofit around a wall outlet, with ends cut at a twenty-two-and-half-degree angle to fitinto corners. if your project calls for similar cuts, measure your corner angles with a protractorand angle finder, then use a miter saw to cut your two-by-four to length. place thetop of the two-by-four along your ledger line and secure it with two three-inch galvanizedor ceramic coated screws to each stud. remove baseboard with a hammer and pry bar.to remove nails, tap them with a hammer and pull them out with pliers. for this windowseat, we removed all of the baseboard, but
feel free to leave the baseboard along theback wall if you’d like. the front frame plates. determine the angleof the wall with a protractor and angle finder and cut the ends of each plate with a mitersaw. positions, centered twenty-four inches apartalong the plates. mark an x to indicate the stud-side of the line, then use a quick squareto strike a cut line for each mark. you’ll need two more studs for the ends. the plates, and measure from the top of theplates to the line on your wall. mark your two-by-four with a quick square, then usea miter saw to make your cuts. to the floor with three-inch screws. startwith a screw on each end. add screws between
studs and at the top of the frame. lines. pre-drill, then secure with two, three-inchscrews in each stud. the front frame and back wall ledger to supportthe seat board and lid. they’ll be located at the ends of the back wall where the sidewalls begin. measure to find their length, mark with a quick square, and make your cutswith a miter saw. step 13: install crosspiecesset the crosspieces in place. we recommend predrilling holes for the screws attachingthe crosspieces to the front frame and back wall ledger. use two screws for each end.check for level as you work and adjust if needed.
from the bottom of the seat to the top ofthe frame. cut a piece of half-inch medium density fiberboard—commonly known as mdf—tothis width with a circular saw. use a chalk line to snap a cutline, then make your cut,using a guide as needed. and put the front panel in place. predrillfor nail holes with a one-sixteenth-inch diameter bit and attach the panel with three-d finishnails. sink the nails in place with a nail set. window seat matches a built-in headboard inthis bedroom. it consists of frames made from three-fourths-inch by three-and-a-half-inchmdf boards with small panel molding around the inside of each panel. if you’d liketo replicate this in your own project, start
by measuring for two pieces of â¾â€ mdf tofit across the top and bottom of the front panel. if your wall is flat, simply use thelength of the front panel. cut the mdf to width with a table saw, then cut to lengthas needed. this panel was over eight feet, so we used two pieces for the top and bottom. step 17: cut and install top and bottom moldingboards use a miter saw to cut the top and bottommolding to match the angle of the side walls. apply wood glue to the back of the board andset it in place. pre-drill for nail holes and use three-d nails to attach the moldingto the front panel. use a nail set to sink the nails and a level to ensure your installationis properly aligned as you work. install both
the bottom and top panel this way. step 18: make and install vertical boardswhen it comes to fitting moldings, scribing in place is always easier than measuring.start by cutting all vertical boards about half an inch longer than the distance betweentop and bottom boards. place one end of a vertical board against the bottom board, thenuse a utility knife to make a notch where it meets the top board. on a flat surface,put the knife back in the notch, slide a quick square up to the knife, and score across theboard, then use a miter saw to make your cut. install the boards with glue and nails asyou did with the top and bottom boards. step 19: install inner panel moldingmeasure, then cut, both ends of a piece of
panel molding at a 45-degree angle. applyglue to the inside edge, then set the molding in place. an eighteen-gauge nailer can speedalong your installation. if you don’t have access to this tool, pre-drill each hole andhammer in one-inch brad nails, sinking each nail as you work. work your way around theinside of each panel, installing all inner moldings the same way. be sure to wipe awayany excess glue as you work. step 20: finishing the front panelnow you’ll begin some of the finishing touches for you window seat. start by filling nailholes with putty, then caulk along the inside and outside edges of the inner panel molding,wiping away excess as you work. once the caulk and putty have dried, sand until smooth.
step 21: top panel cutscreate a cut list and make a diagram of the pieces you need for the top of the windowseat. there will be four parts total—three decking pieces and a lid. make sure the sidepieces are centered in the support piece. a protractor and angle finder will help youlay out the angle of the side walls. use the diagram to mark your cuts on the mdf. onceyou’ve made all your marks, make your cuts with a circular saw or table saw if you haveone large enough. when you’re done, test fit the pieces to ensure a good fit. step 22: install top piecesapply construction adhesive to the frame of the window seat, then set it in place. pre-drillnail holes, then secure with three-d finish
nails, sinking the nail holes with a nailpunch. do this for both side pieces and the back edge piece. step 23: install lidinstall the piano hinge to the back edge of the window seat lid. pre-drill and attachwith provided screws. set the lid in place, then mark the side edges of the hinge on theback panel. prop the lid up with scrap pieces of mdf. predrill holes into the back panel,then attach with screws. step 24: finishing touchesadd any additional molding as desired, then finish the top with paint, puttying nail holesas needed. step 25: install hingesinstalling hinges to support the lid provides
additional safety and makes it easier to use.follow manufacturer instructions to properly install your particular hinges. for most,you’ll need to measure for proper placement, mark for screw holes, and pre-drill, beingcareful not to drill through the lid. placing a bit of painter’s tape on your drill bitto indicate the maximum drilling depth should help with this. attach the hinges with providedscrews. your project is complete! step back and admire your new bay window seating.