in this video i'm going to fix this large bathroom cabinet on to a tiledd bathroom wall. before we start we're going toremove the doors from the cabinet. we need to measure the distance between the two fixing holes. that is very easy to do you simply need a tape measure like that, holdone end in the exact center of the hole and then read the measurement. mineis five hundred and twenty millimeters roughly. to fix the cabinet to thewall we're going to use spring toggles. these are one of the best fixings thatyou can actually use on plasterboard. we have to drill a 14 millimeter hole forthese to work so that will have to go through
the tiles and the plaster board at theback. we will then take that, push that through the hole and then that willspring open then we can tighten that up. you will know to stop using two washeson this that is because we don't actually have the fixing hardware that actually came with the cabinet originally. the disadvantage of aspring toggle is if you can't actually put it in position and remove the screw. soonas you remove the screw you actually lose the spring part down the cavity. toalign the cabinet we need to get it exactly in the center of the basin sowhere the tap is we're just going to go
straight up there and we'll draw an imaginaryline on the wall and if you go up a little bit there you can actually see thatthere is a wall plug from where a mirror has been hung previously. so that'sapproximately the center so i'm going to ensure that the cabbage is centereddirectly about the basin. so i am just going to lift this up and put it inposition. getting it approximately where i want it to be and then mark it throughone of the holes using a marker . i'm now going to put a piece of masking tape over the mark and that will enable the drill bit to start without slipping. thenunderneath that i'm going to tape an envelope and that will catch most of the drilling dust. obviously before we start
i need to put a pair of safety glasses on. i'm going to start off by drilling a small diameter hole which isapproximately 5 millimeters before we enlarge that to the 14 millimetres. there is a chance that behind there is a stud. if there is a stud behind there we could just use a normal screw. so i want to ensure that i don't have hammer action switchedon and i want to proceed to drill the hole. so that didn't take long at all and we could see straight away that there was no stud there because the drill went straight into thecavity. so now we need to enlarge the hole to 14 millimetres.
that is rather a large hole but it is the only size we could actually use with these spring toggles. we can now remove the maskingtape and the envelope. i've now put two marks on the spirit level and that is exactlyfive hundred twenty millimeters so we are now going to transfer that onto the wall. so we can put the spirit level dead in the center of one hole at that side, ensuringthe spirit level is levelled, and then we can mark at this side. that will give usthe exact place that we need to drill so that the fixings are in the exactcorrect position. i will now put the safety glasses back on and then i'm going toproceed to drill the next hole. again i'm going to go through with a smalldiameter drill bit first just on the
off-chance that we have a stud behind the tiles. again it went straight into the cavityso there is no stud behind. so we now need to enlarge that to 14millimetres. to drill the holes i am actually just using a standard sds masonry bit. on the packet that these came in it actually said you needed a 14 millimeterhole which i've drilled and i thought i would just check these and you can't actually getthem through a 14 millimeter hole in tile. if you had a 14mm hole in plasterboard obviously they would go through easily. so i'm going to have to enlarge the holesslightly going to the next drill size up which is 16 millimetres. let's check them again and you can seethat they can now go through the holes.
whatever you do don't push it all theway in or you won't get it back out without losing the spring part. we can now lift that up and push the toggle straight through the holes. then we can push the second fixing through the holes. if you find you can't tighten up the spring toggle you may need to pull the screw backa little and that will pull the spring towards the plasterboard which will enable you to tighten it up. so now we need to put the spirit level onthere and will just ensure that we tighten them up in the level position.
so that is now firmly fixed, we can now replace the doors. i would just like to point out that i wouldn't normally use spring toggles in this kindof situation i would normally use snap toggles. but snap toggles are alot more difficult to get hold of. the spring toggles are readily available.i hope you've enjoyed watching this video if you have and haven't done so alreadyplease subscribe to the channel. you